Epicurian Delights (aka food blog: Pt 2)

Asian treats on the streets of San Francisco's "Chinatown"

(We didn't have any but they looked pretty good!)



At the start of our journey, I wrote about the cultural significance of food in terms of understanding regional/city/ethnic identities. We’ve been so busy that I’ve never posted “Food Blog, Pt 2.” Sad to say that I’ve got lots of half-written blogs and this is one of them. But, I have been keeping a log and taking photos so thought I’d at least post a bit of that to get you thinking (and possibly salivating):

Day 13: Pasta in North Beach‘s Little Italy.



Day 15 - Portland’s famous Voodoo doughnuts.
Pierce tries a doughnut with fruit loops on top. (Seriously?)



Day 16: Seattle’s Starbucks coffee and a group dinner in a restaurant offering “Aroused Americana cuisine.”

Day 17: Glacier - S’mores….cooked in the microwave due to the rain but still darn tasty. A classic for a reason.



Day 21 - Group dinner of deep dish pizza.
(Sorry, Chicago. It's too much. Give me NY style any day!)


Day 24 - Detroit - Foods made in Michigan (e.g., Kellog’s rice krispies) as a gift from Ken’s family and Polish food in Hamtramek which, at one point, had the largest Polish community outside of Poland. We ordered Zupa koperkowa (dill soup), Kielbasa (sausage), and Golabki ("little pigeons" - cabbage parcels, stuffed with mushrooms and meat).
--> Yep:



Cory tries Polish food for the first time:




Day 25 - Ice cream in Buffalo at Fowler’s (since 1910). And, while I didn’t eat it, Ken got an “apple pancake” which was a surprisingly odd looking thing…sort of like a doughy flying saucer!



Day 28 - Boston - steamed shrimp cooked in Old Bay Seasoning and eaten by the water.

Day 30 - NYC - A slice of cheese pizza, New York style.

Day 32 - Philly - The best salad of my life. (Ok, it’s not a Philly Cheesesteak or even a soft pretzel from a roadside cart, but I’m veggie deprived and it was like heaven.)

Day 38 - Charleston - Gullah food for lunch (Thanks, Mr. and Mrs. Greenberg) and a group seafood dinner. (I got the scallops but that whole flounder looked darn good!) Plus 40/40 cupcakes!!!



Day 39: Montgomery: We’ll have our last group dinner of the trip in Montgomery. I'm not sure what it will, be but we’ll make an effort to eat together and wrap up our trip over a nice meal….building community through food, just like the San Fran folks said.

Home and Hope

Today I hit a wall. I’m completely exhausted. What day of the week is it? Is it day 33 or 34 of our journey? Who’s counting?? Well, I am. In fact, we all are. It’s with a mixture of sadness that we’ll end this trip and Cultural Sociology course because it’s been a wild, fantastic ride. But, it’s not home. And, let me just say it…I miss home.

I feel so fortunate to have seen this amazing, beautiful country of ours. We've met so many wonderful, interesting people. We've seen a lot, discussed a lot, and learned a lot! And, I feel luckier still to have to have shared this experience with such amazing students. They are lovely--funny, smart, caring, hardworking, eager-to-learn young people. And, as I’ve said in other blogs, they give me hope for the future of our sometimes crazy world. It’s been a joy to travel with Ken, too. You can probably tell from his blog what a creative and smart guy he is. From a distance people sometimes only see his “cool” -- but he’s so much more than that. He’s a big-hearted person who inspires me, every day, to be a better teacher and a better person. I’m lucky to know him and Belmont is so, so lucky to have him. That said, “There is nothing half so pleasant as coming home again" (Margaret Elizabeth Sangster). We'll see everyone soon!

A little kindness goes a long way

We rounded the bend, so to speak, and arrived in Boston today (7/1). It poured most of the morning so we delayed our departure into the city until 1pm. This, it turns out, was a good thing as we are starting to feel a bit weary and slowly easing into the day made all the difference!

After finding our way on the T (Boston’s subway), we walked part of the Freedom Trail before heading to the Institute for Contemporary Arts where we saw an amazing (and sociological) exhibit of Shepard Fairey’s work. Fairey is a “street artist” now quite well known, whose work encourages people to question things in their environment. Fairey is also known as an appropriation artist because he uses/re-uses popular images and forms in new ways. Fairey’s artist statement indicates that he is inspired by Heidegger’s concept of phenomenology. As a sociology professor, this thrills me to no end. My pesky computer won’t let me copy and paste but I encourage you to read his artist statement and look at a lot of his work at
obey giant.com/about

Here are some of his recent art pieces:








And one you've probably seen before:





After returning to Big Mama (our name for the bus), we broke into groups for dinner. I was surprised to find the students had planned a little birthday shindig for me complete with microwaveable brownie/cake, toilet paper streamers, birthday wrapping paper on the walls and, best of all The 12 Days of Andi (sung to the tune The 12 Days of Christmas…On the fourth day of Andi, my students gave to me, “4 tubs of ice cream, 3 birthday banners, 2 kinds of cake, and a party in an RV….”).

(Here's the cake, ice cream, and bday video...)



It’s this birthday surprise that leads me into today’s blog topic -- kindness.

This trip has been two long years in the planning and it's required the help and support of many, many people. (Thanks Marcia, Bryce, Maria, Matt, Thom, etc etc etc.) Traveling for this long and in this manner (i.e., very long and active days) is difficult. However, along our journey, we’ve met many kind folks who have gone out of their way to help us. Their kindness has resulted in practical help but has usually given us an emotional lift as well. It's also re-solidified our faith in our fellow humans.

Here are just some of the folks to whom I’d like to give thanks:

1. Nick, a college student who is taking time off trom school to work in Glacier National Park on fire duty. We met him in the grocery store where we were buying supplies for a cookout. He took us to a spot where he’d gathered fire wood and helped load a bunch in our truck. We saved some money but also had a good conversation about Glacier and what to see/do. And, I suppose we could thank him for protecting a national park--our park--too.

2. A woman in the San Francisco metro who saw a few of us looking at the subway map, asked where we needed to go, and told us how to get there. She didn’t need to do that and it showed that “big city” people can/do take time from their busy lives to help others.

3. A construction worker who found my bag--with a wallet, camera, and laptop--that one of the students thought they’d put back on our bus but hadn’t. The worker turned it in to campus police in St. Paul and I was able to get it back within hours.

4. The numerous people who have fed us in one way or another -- something that is practical, to be sure, but which is also highly symbolic of community:

• The Silversmiths who cooked not one but two meals for us in their home, and as noted in a previous blog, shared their stories and time with us throughout the day. (You may also wish to read more about our day at the Navajo Nation via this lovely letter at http://www.navajotimes.com/opinions/letters.php a few paragraphs down under the heading: Your stories deserve to be heard.)
• ”Aunt Lunelle” who bought us dinner in El Paso (and took us around the city all day as well!)
• TJ’s uncle who treated us to Polish food in Detroit. Students had never had pierogi, Zupa koperkowa (dill soup), Kielbasa sausage, or Golabki: (aka "little pigeons" - cabbage parcels, stuffed with rice and meat in a tomato sauce). It was great fun for Ken and I to see them try it out for the first time!! Yum!
  
• Ken’s family who made up 12 goodie bags of “Michigan munchies” such as Kellog's Shredded Wheat and Germack Pistacio Company snacks.
  
• Matt and Holly who drove 100 miles to bring us “real” Dr Pepper and tell us about Texas culture.
• Pierce's family for treating us to a Gullah lunch, meeting us for dinner, *and* getting us 40/40 cupcakes!
  

5. Theodore at the Russian orthodox church in Chicago who gave us an impromptu but detailed tour of this lovely church.

6. Folks at the House of Blues, Cleveland, who gave us free tickets to see the Roots (woot!) and also arranged for a private tour of their Folk Art collection. It was big fun!!

7. Marc Folk from the Arts Commission of Greater Toledo who met us for dinner to talk about the creative economy in his community.

8. Greg Harris at the Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village in Detroit who gave us a personal tour of this amazing collection and historic site.

9. The bus driver in Boston who took his bus for one more round, after hours, so that students wouldn't have to pay for a cab back to Big Mama.

10. Harold, a retired "Army man," who took us on a detailed tour of Fort Bliss.


These are just some of the many people along the way who have made our journey across the country a bit easier. Thanks for all your help, enthusiasm, and kindness! This trip has reminded me that it's the people of our country that make the United States of America so wonderful.

Whitman said it best...

For some reason I couldn't get this poem by Walt Whitman to attach to the end of my last post.
Really lovely stuff....maybe it will inspire you as it has me?

(I've made this gender neutral in my mind. You may want to do this, too. And, as is the case with most poetry, it's best read aloud.)


I hear America singing, the varied carols I hear;
Those of mechanics--each one singing his, as it should be, blithe and strong;
The carpenter singing his, as he measures his plank or beam,
The mason singing his, as he makes ready for work, or leaves off work;
The boatman singing what belongs to him in his boat--the deckhand singing on the steamboat deck;
The shoemaker singing as he sits on his bench--the hatter singing as he stands;
The wood-cutter's song--the ploughboy's, on his way in the morning,
or at the noon intermission, or at sundown;
The delicious singing of the mother--or of the young wife at work--or of the girl sewing or washing--Each singing what belongs to her, and to none else;
The day what belongs to the day--At night, the party of young fellows, robust, friendly,
Singing, with open mouths, their strong melodious songs.

Diversity Lessons, Chicago Style

Until I can finish up a few of my longer blog posts, I wanted to offer up a quick note about how much I’ve enjoyed Chicago, especially its diversity. Although I’ve traveled to many places in the world, I’ve never been to Chicago. This acknowledgment leads most of my friends and students to give incredulous looks and comments of “Really? How can that be????” I’m a bit surprised myself given my proximity and the frequent Southwest specials from Nashville. But…there you have it.

Yesterday we checked out Taste of Chicago, The Art Institute of Chicago, and the Sears Tower (holy heck it‘s high!!). By nightfall, most of us where bone tired from all the walking we’d done. Today was a bit more relaxed--our primary goal was to wander through different neighborhoods looking at architecture and other identity markers (e.g., bill boards) associated with each place.

We started off in Chinatown with its bubble tea stores, Chinese restaurants, and pharmacies full of Chinese herbs not found in your typical Walgreen's store. Heading back downtown for lunch we passed by Arabesque, Chicago’s annual Arab festival. We were short on time, so nobody got henna tattoos but we did wander through the “souk,” or marketplace, looking at incense, belly dancing chains, and middle eastern desserts.

We took the train to a Hispanic/Latino neighborhood on the edge Wicker Park, a once working class neighborhood now gentrified and featuring many a hip “bo-bo” (bourgeois and bohemian) boutique. In Wicker Park, even the dentists are hip:

From there I broke off from the group for a quick walk just past Roberto Clemente high school where the boutiques promptly ended and empty lots and rundown buildings began. It was, perhaps, the most obvious shift of neighborhood. Turning around, some of us got lucky and stumbled upon Holy Trinity Cathedral, a lovely Russian Orthodox church built by famous architect Louis H. Sullivan. (I asked Chris to take some photos that would do the cathedral justice. I'll post them soon.)




Just around the corner we came across a local (and fun!) block party on the edge of Chicago’s “Ukrainian Village.”

Having working up a hunger, we headed back into the city for deep dish pizza at Giordano‘s!
If Chicago weren’t so darn cold, I could definitely think about living here. It’s got a good vibe--hustle and bustle downtown and tree-lined neighborhoods and lovely parks when you want something more serene. Much like the rest of our country Chicago is diverse. In my mind, that is one of its most desirable features and the one I may remember the most.

A few days ago we visited Mt. Rushmore, a monument to U.S. history called the "Temple to Democracy" by some. But, it's certainly not our entire history. Nearby, members of the Lakota Tribe are constructing their own monument to Crazy Horse, their leader who is best known for his role in the Battle of Little Bighorn. In part, the crafting of this monument is their response to being left out of the dominant "stories" of our past. In other words, they are literally carving out space for themselves and their people. I get that. It hurts to be left out of a game or not invited to a party. Can you imagine being left out of history in major ways? That doesn't just hurt the Lakota as a people, it hurts all Americans. Because if we don't *truly* know our past, how do we know how we got here and who we truly are as a nation?

That said, while it's important that we acknowledge, honor, and sometimes atone for our past we can't be stuck in the past. We need to have one foot firmly in the present--and be headed into our future. So, to bring it back to the start of this post, I've been pondering ways we can acknowledge and affirm the diversity of our past and of our present without carving up another mountain. Perhaps we could print new money--something that most people see on a regular basis. It could include drawings of teachers, farmers, slaves, coal miners, artists, doctors, retail clerks, scientists, and so on. (And, while we're at it, let's make the money prettier--pinks, blues, silver, spring green, etc.) What do you think? What ideas do you have for celebrating the diverse peoples who built and continue to build the United States?

America the Beautiful

Nobody sees a flower really; it is so small.
We haven't time, and to see takes time -
like to have a friend takes time.
~ Georgia O'Keffe

(Sunset along the beach in Crescent City, California.)

I’ve never was a “nature girl…or so I thought. Growing up, my mom would joke--sort of--that she’d “go camping at the Hilton.” We’d go to the beach on the weekends, but I was only a kid and didn’t really think about nature or how lucky I was to grow up near the ocean. I was focused on the fun of it all--swimming and building sand castles and soaking up the sun. What I wouldn’t give to live near that ocean now.

.
(Both big and small in the Redwoods.)

Until graduate school, I never went out of my way to be in nature. Sitting on my back porch and walking in my neighborhood seemed good enough. But then, something changed. I started walking the trails in Tallahassee and canoeing the nearby waterways. Every once in a while I'd drive 90 minutes to spend the day on the beach St. George Island. Increasingly, I began to really look at my surroundings. I wasn’t thinking about the day or going for exercise. I was there to be in nature. I was there just to be. It was unexpectedly liberating.


(These roses looked gorgeous, but it was the scent that hooked me. Sort of grapefruity.)

After graduate school, I’d walk along the river in Tulsa most nights, watching the water and light change with the time of day and the season. That’s when I realized there really were hundreds of shades of green. I snorkeled in Thailand, hiked in Morocco, and kayaked in Belize. Bit by bit, the pieces added up: I was, in fact, a “nature girl.” Who knew?

(A view from the Portland International Rose Test Garden.)

Someone recently asked me where I went to church this past Easter. I replied that I went to the “Church of Radnor Lake.” I wasn’t joking. Instead of the usual Sunday service, I wanted to be in the hills, looking at swaths of purple larkspur, and trying to catch a glimpse of the deer in the woods or along the lake.

God writes the gospel not in the Bible alone,
but on trees and flowers and clouds and stars.
~Martin Luther

Students sweetly teased me this morning about videos that I took in the Redwoods: a big banana slug eating a leaf, clover blowing in the breeze, and three tiny streams that all dripped into a pool at different rates causing what I called a “stream symphony.” I know, I know, it sounds silly. But…I must have listened to it for 10 minutes. P-lunk, p-lunk, p-lunk. Plunkplunkplunkplunkplunk. Pluuuuuuuuunk. Pluuuuuuuuuunk. Pluuuuuuuuuunk. I was a little spellbound, really. Dante once said something like “Nature is the art of God” and as I consider the natural beauty we’ve seen on this trip, that idea rings true to me.

(The sunset from atop Seattle's Space Needle.)

This trip also has me thinking about the huge disconnect many of us experience as we traverse the concrete jungle each day going to and fro. In Los Angeles, we took two trips that, while just around 20 miles, took us nearly 2 hours to make given the traffic. In Vegas, we were surrounded by lots of lights, but unable to see any stars. In Memphis we watched ducks waddle down a carpet in a big, fancy hotel rather than in a lake somewhere.

(Sunset in El Paso, Tx.)

Likewise, back at home, I often sit at my desk for 10 or 12 hours a day. I have a window that looks out over a mighty oak and I have a light bulb that mimics full-spectrum sunlight. But, I have come to the realization that I need to be in nature -- not just view it from inside a window. Increasingly I’m making time to hike a few times a week and I’m thinking about buying a kayak when I get home. I realize that while I’ve been interested in getting out on the water, I haven’t been committed. There’s a big difference between the two.

(The Grand Canyon. This shot doesn't do it any justice.)


I’ve enjoyed visiting the cities we’ve seen and talking with so many different kinds of people on this trip. I’ve loved being with our students and my colleague, Ken. And, I look forward to seeing New York, Chicago, and Minneapolis. But, I’m pretty sure a big part of what I’ll remember about our adventure will be the amazing natural sights we’ve seen. And the song, "America the Beautiful" will never be the same for me again.

I thank you God for this most amazing day,
for the leaping greenly spirits of trees,
and for the blue dream of sky and for everything which is natural,
which is infinite, which is yes.
~e.e. cummings

(A field of roses...my inner garden nerd was in heaven.)

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.
~John Muir

Watching clouds roll by
on a sunny day
Who needs church?
Nature is divine.
~Carrie Latet

FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD

Today we spent a good portion of the day doing the unglamorous but necessary tasks required by our trip--laundry, showers (yeah!), cleaning the bus, and stocking up on groceries. We are eating far too unhealthful and spending far too much eating out. In fact, some days it feels like eating is all we do. But, that makes sense, in a way, because we’re trying to understand American and what better way than through its food. If food is a vehicle through which we can understand local culture then, by extension, maybe we can learn a little about ourselves in the process.

We’ve come a long way since the standard “meat and potatoes” meals of the 1950s. Sure, we still have the “meat and three” in the south, but nowadays, consumers (at least those who have the luxury to afford it) desire beautiful, creative, healthy, and aesthetically pleasing meals. And, organic if we/they can get it. While I normally stick to “healthy” choices at home such as egg whites, fruit, and protein shakes, that’s been pretty hard to do on this trip. So far I’ve take a “when in Rome do as the Romans“ approach. I’m sure it will cost me when I get home, but it’s been a lot of fun. And, I think it’s teaching me some useful things about Americans/America.

For the past several years I’ve been wanting to put together a Sociology of Food class to explore how factors as gender, ethnicity, class, and religion influence the foods we choose to eat as well as those we wouldn’t touch with a 10 foot pole. (How about that fried tarantula I ate in Cambodia? Um, not a delight. But, folks there eat them by the bucketful without batting an eye.) Similarly, how do social forces such as the economy, media, and political structures influence how/why we consume certain foods? How do people ritualize their food use and in what ways can food help create community or create barriers between people?

While I’d like to say a lot about these topics, it‘s nearly 1:00 a.m., so I simply want to list a few of the foods I’ve eaten--along with some photos--to get you thinking about the connections between food and culture. What do you think we can learn about America by the diversity of its food offerings?

Day 1: Memphis - Rashina’s parents treated the entire group to an amazing array of Indian food. My choices included amazing samosas with chutney, naan, and gulab jamin with chai for dessert. Once you have real, fresh chai like I had in India and, again, at the Bhula’s, you will never, ever go back to tea from a box.


Fantastic! Thank you, Mr. and Mrs. Bhula for your hospitality.

Day 2: Little Rock. I haven’t had beef, chicken, pork, and many other meats since I left for India in December. But, without eggs and fish…I couldn’t do it. So, at the Express Kitchen we ate at for dinner, I chose fried cat fish, mac & cheese, corn bread, mashed potatoes, and to share with the group… banana pudding. I can almost hear my arteries clogging now. But, it was fantastic fun. Being called “sugar” and “darlin’ ” when being asked what I wanted just added to the charm of the place.

Day 3: New Orleans. How could I go to NOLA and not get a Po Boy? This time it was a shrimp Po Boy and bread pudding for dessert. Lots of students had never tried the latter and it was fun to get their reviews. (My assessment: nice dose of cinnamon, but I make a better version.)

Day 4: San Antonio. My choice for lunch? Enchiladas and guacamole salad down on the Riverwalk. So much food I couldn't eat most of it. It's Texas...even lunch is BIG.

During our afternoon class, Matt and Holly surprised us with cold Dr Pepper. This is the original version--made with a different kind of sugar or something. Better than the usual stuff--not as sweet. And, I also learned that it’s Dr Pepper--without the period (not Dr.). Had never noticed that before.

Day 5: El Paso. We had lunch at Fort Bliss, the largest army base in the country--maybe the world. Would you expect anything less? After all, it *is* Texas. The meal was much like any college cafeteria offering. My tuna sandwich didn’t seem all too Texan so for dinner I sampled chili rellenos and flan. Again, most students had never tried the latter so we each got a custardy mouthful. Big fun. (Thanks to Heather’s aunt, Lounelle, for being our host.)

Day 6: Roswell. Ok, so, what can I say about Roswell NM? I’d hoped to find an Alien Salad or Out-of-this-world vegetable soup, but no luck. So, today I’ll list WATER as my special “food.” Our group spent a few hours out at the lake and I took a pretty long hike. After drinking two big bottles of water, I headed back to the lake and was surprised to find that the state park didn’t have working water fountains. What? Really? At a state park in the desert? (They also didn‘t have any recycling set up even though bottles are bound to be plentiful in such a situation.) My only option--to buy a bottle for $1.50. Boo.


Day 7: Gallup, N.M. Thanks to the women of the Silversmith family, today we all sampled our first Navajo tacos. These consist of ground beef (for most), beans, lettuce, tomatoes, union, and freshly ground chili on top of fried round bread. We had the same delicious bread topped with fresh homemade jam (berries picked in Portland) for dessert. This kept us going for nearly 7 hours!!



Day 8: Salt Lake City. Salt Lake City surprised most of us. We didn’t know much about it except for its Mormon history/present. And, we didn’t have an image of a regional food that went with it. The vibe and diversity in SLC was a pleasant surprise for everyone but the food surprised me, too. We started our day with lunch at Tony Caputo’s Deli. Tony and his restaurant are largely responsible for the urban renewal in that part of town. Apparently, you wouldn’t have wanted to step foot there 10 years ago. Our food choices were diverse and delightful, too. For lunch I had a fresh mozzerella/tomato/basil sandwich and Greek salad. Dinner was amazing Thai that gave Nashville’s Siam Café a good run for its money. Again, it was a blast to be there when several students tried their first Thai food. But, my favorite food of the day was Le Palle del Diavolo (aka “Devil’s Balls”) that I bought for everyone to try. These are wonderful dark chocolates laced with chili pepper. The heat that hits you at the end. Pow! When I find these online I’m going to order more.
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Day 10: Vegas - For me it was a vegan tuna wrap. Dinner at In and Out burger. What’s a pescetarian to do? I opted for fries.

Day 12: Los Angeles. Ah, yes, we’ve made it to the west coast. How do I know? I was able to get an egg white and avocado wrap w/ fruit and bottled jasmine tea for lunch. Made by the former chef for Mohamed Ali. Dinner included a small portion of blackened wahoo (fish), brown rice, black beans, and lime (followed by a short walk along the coast).


That’s it for the food blog, part 1. I’m sure I’ve got some dates wrong…time really blurs. But, you get the (delicious) idea.